Hey, Ron! The course builds up your understanding of the concepts behind perspective and how those affect objects, and why. With those in your toolkit, you'll then dive into applying those on a larger scale with a full scene that has complex considerations like vanishing point being determined by the viewer's eye. Think of it as learning to rotate the box before placing it in an environment. When we already have that knowledge as you do, it can be hard to rewind to a time before we knew that and sit through fundamentals. But revisiting those when we get the chance can unlock new understandings for us sometimes. Marshall planned this course to teach beginners in a way that sets them up for a deep understanding of perspective and this is the order he determined. Here's an image that was previously shared on this course page that takes you through the lesson group plan. You can see Eye Level in lesson group 9, leading into the more complex Picture Plane in lesson group 10.

Hey, Christopher! While Marco mentions Photoshop, Krita and Procreate in the course details, this is intended to apply to pretty much all digital art making apps you can use a stylus with. You should be good to follow along with Clip Studio. There are tons of shared functions across all the different apps that have the same or similar functions and this walks you through them in a really user-friendly way.

Hey, Shan! You can see a little behind the scenes of what we use in Slew's recent video. 🔗https://youtu.be/R4ocBGf0614 We photograph art and do video with the same setup so it's a little different than if we were just doing photos. That can have a lot its own processes for the real high end version (especially for paintings) but this is what we do typically: Our main setup has a desk that's as horizontally flat as it can be. (Fully flat for photos or a little angled if you're recording video). Two lights point down towards the drawing at 45°. This helps to give you even lighting. Those overhead softbox lights have a few cluster LED bulbs in each of them that we call "corn cobs". They're 5000k temp so it's an even and more white-ish daylight. For photos and for video, we do some editing to address any issues we see. Contrast adjustments, removing noise, even out occasional reflection hotspots on the desk, making Stan's background perfectly white. and more. We use Lightroom from photos and Da Vinci Resolve for video color grading. Our cameras have ranged from a Canon 7D at the start of Proko, Lumix GH4s for a long while and now we're using Blackmagic 6K cameras. We don't scan art too often unless it's HUGE and hard to get photos/video of. Our dinky office scanner takes a bad image so we go to a professional place nearby for that. This is very infrequent. The main thing is using a tool that gives you an honest image without pushing colors and contrast FOR you and then giving it the most even lighting so they see the work you did, not the light of the room you're in. At one point, we considered making a video about how to shoot good photos of your art but it just became clear that it was a LOT if we were to do it proper, with a lot of it being situational to the medium, the room and the tools available. Use your phone or whatever camera you have but if you use your phone, try using an app that gives you some basic professional controls and less auto stuff that makes colors pop without you choosing it. Feel free to follow up with more questions if you'd like!