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Randy Pontillo
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3d
added comment inAssignment - XYZ: The Framework for Drawing in 3D
Asked for help
A 3D compass, surely, follows the same rules as a 2D compass, right? Where between East and South is East-South, and between that and East again is East-East-South?
I'm trying to wrap my head around the "Inwards Diagonal UP line" in the pyramid shape. That would make it ZY or YX depending on its orientation, right? since if you were to move the object locked to that axis it would go diagonally?
Lin
3d
I would say for stuff that is pulled inwards like that trapezoid it does so on all xyz axes on all four lines. They’re moving up which uses y, they’re being sucked in which uses z (depth) and they’re moving left to right because the form thins out towards the top. If you draw a vertical from the corner and another vertical from the arrival point you’ll notice that one saying zy has also moved along the x axis. I think. XD
Blender has the axes as kinda like monorail lines if you ever played rollercoaster tycoon. You can move the car left and right, up and down both under the ground and above it, towards or away from us. So a line at the back that’s pulled towards us is using depth just as much as one that moves away.
The toy plane wings are also moving in space along all three axes in my opinion because they want to kill me >.>
Lin
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3d
Asked for help
Here are my submissions. I feel like some beveled shapes like the hexagon give enough hints to figure out the axes but then with the wedge I got confused and couldn’t do the box correctly (I suspect). I’d love to know how to do the boxes around wedged shapes, round shapes an axis is missing with no hints.
One struggle is when the page is blank I don’t yet know how to do a right angle in perspective and get it quite right. When I check they’re always some off or if I’m using a reference I have to correct a bit. XD
Sorry about the separate images. I'm not good with the computer stuff.
I feel like I understand most of the construction, but I always feel like my drawing look a bit off or I have some issues placing the eyes in the sockets. Should the ye always be big enough to fit snugly into the socket, or is there often some struggle and trial and error to fit it? I always have the impression that the issue with the eye placement is a symptom of lousy construction. Is this construction and eye placement fully accurate?
Also, sorry for always posting the same strange reference. I have difficulty with it and wouldn't want to post something I accidentally get right.
I have a feeling you’re a perfectionist like me so you’re in danger of digging yourself in the same hole I dug myself in not too long ago - which is trying to perfect the characteristic-ness of a subject too early (in my case I was 6 months into art and a lot worse). Studies are not meant to look perfect and it’s going to take mileage between understanding something and being able to reproduce it where it completely feels like that person. It already looks much better than the previous. There’s benefit in moving on to the next one than redoing the same thing again and again because your skills won’t change very much in a day or two and there’s only so far you can take something with how your brain sees today. Unless you’re using plumb lines and take many hours to push accuracy to the max…which can be worth it for a finished work ̶o̶r̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶i̶t̶’̶s̶ ̶V̶i̶k̶t̶o̶r̶ ̶a̶r̶c̶a̶n̶e, it will look a bit different.
My recommendation is to stop caring about likeness right now and instead create a simplified head/face mask system that you can reliably trace on top of any face anywhere quickly. This will help you see how shapes change with perspective which is a key part leading to achieving likeness. You know the system, so it’s time to break all the rules and make stuff up.
Mine consists of bony landmarks, Michael hampton’s landmarks/shapes (especially the eye area - there are some really bad versions out there for the eye area), a couple of Reilly rhythms (I only like two so I scrapped the rest), ONE single loomis measurement because I can only take loomis proportions in small doses >.> and some other divisions that are mine but I like them because it splits the front of the face planes from the side planes in all four directions. And lastly, the Asaro head a huge staple, (there’s an amazing model on sketchfab that you can rotate).
Then, imagine it’s the Elden Ring face slider and you’re moving the controls randomly.Some things will work and some won’t. Put the eyes too low or too high, change shapes, don’t worry about likeness or rules. For example, I found that the jaw angle always looks amateur if it’s 90 degrees or less. But break the rules any other way and it can add character. Having less than an eye distance between them looks terrible but pushing them too high can feel regal (and is a personal preference of mine despite being told that they have to be in the centre). They’re definitely not in the centre in the superhero from imagination I tried quickly below. And I’m willing to bet that other head has the eyeballs in the wrong place XD but it’s good enough for me now compared to the travesties I used to make.
Once you get more comfortable with the same system you’ll notice things begin to slide in a little better too. I used to care about eyeball size in perspective underneath the lids, now I just care they’re in the eye socket somewhere. If it doesn’t feel right I shift them. I know they’re too wide apart sometimes, but that will even out with time xD
Thank you guys.
I swear I know things get smaller further back, Marshall. I am noticing all the division errors now that it’s been a while, can’t edit though x_x
Smithies
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7d
Asked for help
Are you trying to kill us Marshall?? The video made these look fun. I ran into a lot of problems, so submitting part 1 early to seek help from the community!
I tried to do it without using vanishing points - big mistake no.1. I retried the worst one with vanishing points, but none of my bits look like cubes! Is there an easy solution to this, or is it back to… draw 9999 boxes and they’ll start to look better?
I might do my next one using isometric angles just to try and make it look understandable, but feel like maybe that is just cheating..? Maybe I should try and do both.
See?! It looks so deceptively easy. I used the word “relaxing” when I started it 😆 Here are some tricks I found way too late:
- lay out the all encompassing container and divide it first. My proportions are off because I realized way too late many divisions are neat units and I can use diagonals and squares to divide.
- try working from the back towards the front of the viewer otherwise it might get difficult when everything in the front covers the back with lots of lines
- different colors help a lot keeping things situated
- drawing a vp grid very lightly on a loose light sketch at first from intuition slanting lines more and more on mindless setting can make things a lot easier because you’ll be matching and correcting these lines when you’re in the thick of it. I usually try both ways. If digital and the grid is accurate, I make the grid invisible then try on my own and switch it on to see how off I was.
all in all these look great for no VPs!
Lin
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8d
Asked for help
I’m about to embark on this project but before I do that, I did a head trying to put in everything I learned so far, adding more detail on top of the schematic. A lot of classes jump suddenly in difficulty but this gradual buildup has been incredibly helpful (at least for my brain that requires a fair bit of handholding) and I think it shows in the different stages of practice. Still have a looong way to go but I’ve been struggling a lot with placing the features and it’s nice to get closer and not feel like you’re wildly guessing. That stage where you learned the loomis method but then add features flat on top is so frustrating to go through. so being able to locate the brow line with a system instead of measuring everything part by part has been a game changer.
Lin
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9d
Asked for help
I am excited for this one! Just one question please. I notice all the form oblique views are from the same camera angle (for lack of a better phrasing). They all have the same 2 point VPs. Is this just for consistency or a key part of an oblique view to be at a specific angle? So in our projects are we expected to keep this view (30 or 45 degrees) and play with height and depth, or can we do practically any turn?
Fernando Gomez Sancha
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1mo
Your first lecture is a joy to watch. Impressive work. Congratulations Michael, it is already worthwile having purchased the course.
I am currently doing his head course and have his figure course in the queue (while doing Marshall’s perspective class) but every single notification I get about this is so enticing. XD I think I might cave and just get it even if I can’t do 3 at once efficiently.
Lin
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9d
This one was super helpful to cement things further and I’m feeling more comfortable with the system!
The top of the skull in perspective is my enemy 💀