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Samuel Eli
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3yr
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Help with Robo-bean!Decided to take a break from grinding perspective stuff, and move onto doing robo-beans from regular beans and gesture drawing. For context, I've been studying some from Michael Hampton's book on figure drawing as well.
Any feedback is super appreciated :)
Specifically, I'm having a really hard time figuring out how to position the pelvises when they are in odd positions other than a normal full frontal or 3/4 view.
They feel very stiff and robotic to do, which I'm not sure if that's the stylistic point, or if I'm missing some gestural stuff.
Right now, I'm working in a very small room in a townhouse that I share with my roommate. So, can't have huge easels or desks.
I have two desks (2 ft X 4ft), with one being sequestered to one side of the room and other opposite. One side of my room is my art space, while the other is my "other" space. I'm pretty satisfied with that basic layout.
I'm looking for a good drawing surface/board I can use with my table top easel. I have a Art Alternatives Ravenna Table Easel, and I love it. BUT - I can't seem to find a decent, sturdy drawing board to go with it. I have a 18x24 Alvin Cutting mat that I'd like to also lay on top of said drawing board.
Basically, I'm looking for a good, sturdy, and not-too-heavy drawing board where I can lay my mat on top of it. I've used 18x14 Masonite boards before, but they tend to bend and warp as I get closer to the edges with pressure (simply because they are so thin).
Does anyone have any suggestions or tips?
I love to work on a tilted (45-60 degree) angle when I do any sort of traditional work. Wouldn't be opposed to replacing the whole setup if it means I won't run into drawing board warping problems :/
Left a pic for scale :P
Hi @Samuel Eli, i went through Marshall's perspective course recently as well. The first thing i noticed was that the box you drew is not a cube, the length sides are larger than the height of the box. This means that if you want to draw a perfect circle in one of the side planes the circle will touch the top and bottom of the rectangle, but it will not touch the left and right side of the rectangle. So i think the construction of the ellipse is fine. Try doing it on a more perfect cube in perspective and it will work out better. In the beginning of Marshall's classes he eye-balled/estimated a perfect square in perspective, in the last class he actually provides a method to draw perfect squares in perspective (Planned Projection). Hope this helps
It does, I see the problem now. A little frustrated with myself in how I didn't pay attention to that particular detail >.>
One of the things Scott Robertson talks about in his book is using ellipses to estimate a cube. In other words, draw the ellipses first, get them placed, and then draw the cube around them.
Your ellipses look like they are in correct perspective. They are just too far apart.
Yeah, you are correct. Actually, I know what your talking about with regards to Scott Robertson.
I actually found his steps as rather self evident, but when I was studying other sources, it was in the reverse order. I was getting frustrated as to why I couldn't reverse engineer by going square>ellipse, instead of ellipse>square.